A Weekend in Paris, Part II

The second day took us to the neighborhood of a friend from Berlin who had recently moved to Paris. Time to sit and enjoy the sun. The third day was filled with sights of the city as we biked around. I'll leave the photos of Notre Dame and the Louvre behind, in favor of these quieter images of small scenes from the day. Above, a characteristic sign above the metro, with the rising sun shining on the house behind.

A friend from Berlin recently moved into a flat in Paris, with a lovely stairwell.

Early Sunday morning on the Seine.

Browsing through the bookstands along the Seine on a Sunday afternoon.

A small door on a quiet street.

A Weekend in Paris, Part I

I probably should have known it wasn't going to be a conventional weekend when, as we drove away from Amsterdam and towards Paris, Marcus turned to me and said, "I could use a beer and a sausage." We certainly weren't on our way to Germany though.

Confession: I did not see the Eiffel Tower. At least not in full view. At one moment I saw the top of it peeking over the rooftops, but that was it.

Instead of being a proper tourist introduction to a city, my time was more of an experience. Experience #1: how to find a parking spot on a Friday night. Experience #2: how to eat a baguette that looks like a machete. Experience #3: how to run down the steps of Sacre Coeur and find a quiet cafe asap. Experience #4: how to forget my favorite sunglasses somewhere. Experience #5: how to eat a wonderfully gluttonous meal. Experience #6: how to arrive at the Arc de Triomphe precisely at closing time. Experience #7: how to ride a bike through Paris (surprisingly easy). Experience #8: how to ride the metro.

What surprised me most was how familiar the city was. It seemed like a mix of Rome, Brussels and Berlin in one. With a hint of Prague. It was a fun weekend trip, but I think I learned my lesson that new cities deserve more than 48 hours. More photos to come...

The carousel in Montmartre, at the foot of the steps leading to Sacre Coeur.

Behind the crowd of people, Sacre Coeur.

The cute nook tucked in a back alley, which was the only parking spot available on Friday night.

Art on the wall of Terminus Nord, which served the most decadent meal I have ever eaten.

Terminus Nord, a seafood restaurant opposite Gare du Nord.

The Arc du Triomphe on a Saturday night.

Les Films Français

Half inspired by my upcoming trip to Paris and half by a lovely blog post about foreign films by & everything nice, I have been on a French film kick the past few weeks. Most recently I watched Le voyage du ballon rouge / The flight of the red balloon (directed by Hsiao-hsien Hou, above image). Inspired by the 1956 film by Albert Lamorisse, this film is a mix of quiet and chaos, a beautifully filmed moment of life.

Other films include Un long dimanche de fiançailles / A very long engagement (directed by Jean-Pierre Jeunet starring Audrey Tautou, first image below), Un prophète / The prophet (directed by Jacques Audiard, second image below) and Mouchette (directed by Robert Bresson, third image below). What are some of your favorite French films?

mono.kultur

mono.kultur is a magazine from Motto Berlin, which features one interview with one person per issue. Past interviewees include German cinematographer Michael Ballhaus, sound artist Carsten Nicolai, Israeli author Zeruya Shalev, photographer David LaChapelle, and architect David Adjaye. The latest issue features Cyprien Gaillard a Parisian-born conceptual artist. Always a fan of a great interview, I love that mono.kultur captures a conversation and offers a peek into the life and inspiration of vastly different artists.

I picked up my copy of issue #24 from Athenaeum Bookseller in Amsterdam, but heard about the magazine from The Post Family, an artist collective in Chicago. Although based in the States, they seem to have an inside scoop on small publications coming out of German-speaking countries. Can't help but love that.

Planning for Paris

Next weekend, we're off to Paris. My first time! Most people find this fact unbelievable, but when I chose a holiday destination in the past, it was more likely to be Berlin, Zurich, Krakow, Budapest, Prague... really anywhere other than Paris. Most people either love Paris or hate it and my experience with many non-French Europeans is that they don't see the appeal.

Still, I live just a few hours away. Why not spend a weekend in Paris and see what I think? For those of you who fall into the 'love Paris' category', I'd be happy for some tips. Favorite spots to sip coffee, best breakfast nooks, favorite areas to walk around. Merci! (images from karigee)

The Discovered Work of Vivian Maier

Beautiful collection of Vivian Maier's street photographs of Vivian Maier, which were discovered at an estate auction in Chicago. Maier was a French-born street photographer from the 1950s - the 1990s who came to the States as a child. Her photography remained unknown until after her death in 2009 and were discovered by John Maloof. The collection of her work found at the auction included 100,000 mostly medium format negatives and many undeveloped rolls of film (via anothersomething).

Package in the Post

Last Friday afternoon, I arrived home to find a package from my sister waiting for me. The perfect start to a weekend. Not only did she send some yummy treats, but she also sent along my growing collection of ordered items that I couldn't bear to ship individually across the Atlantic.

Now, after a long wait, I finally have four beautiful prints of photographs by abby try again (pictured above). I also have two books to add to my growing collection:  Hymn California by Adam Gnade and Creative, Inc. by Meg Mateo Ilasco and Joy Deangdeelert Cho. Thanks for the package lovely sister!

A Bit of Online Reading

This weekend I had the chance to enjoy two online magazines, Rue and Sweet Paul. By 'enjoy', I mean curled on the couch underneath a blanket with a cup of apple cider. Yes, it was even raining outside. Sweet Paul Magazine (above) focused its second issue on fall and is filled with 'easy and elegant recipes, fun and stylish crafts, entertaining tips' and more. The food sets and photography are beautiful and the falls recipes, inspiring. Rue Magazine (below), which premiered just last week,  is an interiors and lifestyle publication. Not merely a translation of print virtues to online, Rue has video and links embedded within the magazine. Great editorial choices to embrace the medium. Looking forward to future issues!

A Taste of Fig

Last year, for the first time in my life, I ate a fig. A friend brought an array of fruit to a dinner party and fresh figs were among the selection. I loved the flavor and especially the beauty of the purple skin and pink, seedy flesh. At the market this morning, I picked up a few for the weekend and wondered once again, how I could have only encountered them in my 20s. Perhaps it's not much of a surprise, since I grew up in the Pacific Northwest and figs grow abundantly in the Mediterranean regions. Still, in a time when food is quickly shipped around the world and the produce section of the grocery store is without seasons, it's nice to know that there are still new things to discover (image from suttonhoo).

A Weekend Away

Feeling an itch to get away for a weekend. The only remaining question: where to go? Floating through my head are ideas of France, Italy, Spain, and Ireland. Paris is only a train ride away, the other locations probably require a short flight. Just a chance to walk over some unfamiliar cobblestones and breathe in the air of another city.

(Above: Image of Venice from here. Below: Image of Paris from here. Image of Madrid from here. Image of Dublin from here.)

Cinema Tells Its Truth

Inspired by the work of French philosopher Jacques Rancière, a film and philosophy series at SMART Project Space in Amsterdam will trace the history of modern cinema by analyzing how film depicts its own truth. The program includes ten films discussed by Rancière in his book La Fable cinématographique (Film Fables). The opening film, Mouchette (Robert Bresson, 1967) will be introduced by Rancière. Also playing are Tartuffe (F.W. Munau, 1926), M – Eine Stadt sucht einen Mörder (Fritz Lang, 1931), La Chinoise (Jean-Luc Godard, 1967) and Roma, città aperta (1945). The full program can be viewed here. The series runs from 22 September - 7 November.

A September Morning

It's quickly turning to autumn here in Amsterdam. Yesterday evening I biked through the rain to a colleague's wedding, wondering if my dress and hair would survive. They did and it was a lovely night, which has led to a slow morning. But now the sun is peeking through my window and it's time to throw on a scarf and go for a walk.

Along with the rainy weather, the trees have started to change. Quite early, isn't it? I'm missing my camera at this moment - hard to believe that I work for a photography organization and am currently cameraless. On my trip to Portland in December, purchasing a camera with be task #1. For now, I'll dip a bit more into Flickr for visual inspiration.

First image from here. Second image from here. Third image from here.

Carson Ellis illustrations

I was thrilled when I read that the cover of The Mysterious Benedict Society, a wonderfully imaginative book, was illustrated by Carson Ellis. How could I not have known? Carson is best know  to me for her amazing work on the albums and concert posters of The Decemberists. Her illustrations from another book, Dillweed's Revenge, are showing at Nationale gallery in Portland from 8 September - 3 October. If I were there, I would certainly stop by.

A Small Thought

All I need right now is one, small thought. I am on deadline to come up with a big idea for a little project.

This image is from an exhibition three years ago in Amsterdam's Stedelijk Museum. The pencil on the floor was barely noticeable, just lying on the floor surrounded by larger works that screamed for attention. I just need to find that little detail in my mind that can make people stop and take a second look.

A Place to Live

Ah, I want to live here. Most rental apartments in Amsterdam - like mine - come completely furnished, down to the teaspoons and bathroom towels. Kind of weird, eh? The sense of impermanence for foreigners in this city makes it hard to get the motivation to do a redesign. But if I did, this would be it (image via spaceships).

Cosas mínimas (little things)

Fall has arrived in Amsterdam and it's time to write a few letters delayed by the summer weather. I posted the first one to my grandfather in Oregon yesterday - I hope the ink survived the rainy trip from my jacket pocket to the mailbox.

Plans for this weekend include helping a friend move to a new apartment (my first chance at the Dutch system of moving through the front window with a rope hanging from the rooftop - very exciting!), trying a new recipe with the fresh fish bought at Noordermarkt, Café Brecht tonight for 'a trip through German music history' and some Czech beer, reading from Dreaming in Hindi, camera shopping (Sarah recommended the Panasonic LX3. Any thoughts?) and writing a few letters, of course.

I'm loving the postcards and images by Blanca Gómez, a graphic designer and illustrator from Madrid, from her project cosas mínimas, which means 'little things' in Spanish (via elephantine).

Back to Dresden

When I came to Europe for the first time in 2004, I stayed in Dresden for two weeks, en route to Rome. I had friends studying there - translation: a free place to crash - which made Germany the perfect place to start and end my trip. Little did I know that the time I spent in Dresden would spark a love of Germany that continues today. While living in Amsterdam for the past four years, I have spent a fair amount of time exploring other parts of Germany, especially my Lieblingsstadt Berlin, but I always venture back to Dresden at some point. Even for just a day.

On the recent trip to Berlin, etc. Herr Pfeiffer and I spent two days in Dresden, getting reacquainted with the city I once knew quite well. Our lovely hosts Bill and Jule took us around the city and introduced us to Loschwitz, a neighborhood teeming with aging houses and rustic color. We spent the evening in Neustadt, 'new city', for drinks and dinner, which allowed us a peek at the graffiti blossoming in the vibrant neighborhood.

Eine Frau, graffiti in Neustadt, Dresden, Germany.

Mural in Neustadt, Dresden, Germany.

A beautiful house in the Loschwitz neighborhood of Dresden, Germany.

A lovely building with a word puzzle. Laden (store) Galerie (gallery), Ausstellung (exhibition) Verkauf (sales). I'm not sure the purpose of the repetition: store-sales, gallery-exhibition. Confusion reigns no matter how long I study. Any ideas?

A blue gate leading to house number 20. How I would love to walk through it at the end of each day.